A comprehensive guide to a Lisbon holiday

Top 10 reasons to visit Lisbon!

Lisbon is the warmest capital of Europe and a perfect year round destination. It receives more sun than any city on the entire continent.

2. It’s one of the world’s oldest cities

A fertile ground for history-hungry travelers, it is authentic in its culture, traditions and originality. It predates its famous neighbors by hundreds of years. One can sense its dilapidated antiquity clinging to every corner.

3. Stretch your currency

Whether you are carrying Dollars, Euros or Pounds, your money goes a long way. Compared to its European neighbors the cost of living and eating out is very affordable.

4. Come for the food and drinks

The Portuguese may have introduced hot chillies to Asia, tea to England and tempura to Japan but their cuisine is relatively unknown.  The Portuguese cuisine is typically hearty, a veritable banquet of local seafood, sausages, soups & stews, pastries, bread and rice.

You come to eat codfish or bacalhau in Portuguese. It is more than simply a traditional dish, it is a national obsession.

From Michelin star restaurants, local neighborhood eateries and tascas (taverns), Lisbon is abundant for gastronomical choices. Then there is the amazing selection of Portugese wines, port and inexpensive beers.

5. City of Balconies and Vistas

Draped over the seven hills, Lisbon buildings are adorned with balconies and its neighborhoods accentuated with Miradouros (terraces) offering spectacular views. You will want to dine and drink on these amazing terraces or just hang out in the balconies and watch Lisbon life below.

6. Tascas and Fado Music

Away from the city’s most touristy areas and during the night in the crowded narrow streets of Alfama and Bairro Alto you can hear the melancholy Fado music drifting from packed tascas.

Lisboetas and tourists alike mingle in these local traditional restaurants which serve home-style food in large portions and at cheap prices accompanied by Fado singers singing songs of longing and heartbreak.

Fado music is a state of “Saudaude” set to music, it is emotion rendered!

7. Street Art

The city supports street art and it is most prevalent in the Bairro Alto district, however you can see murals citywide which have inspired street art tours.

One of the best spots to see the art is on Calçada da Glória, one of Lisbon’s steepest streets. Discover the street art of Lisbon on a private guided tour and encounter graffiti and urban art from large scale installations to political and social murals. Click here to book your tickets.

8. Nightlife

Lisbon has a very active nightlife scene.  From bars and pubs with live music, nightclubs for dancing, jazz lounges, wine bars and tascas  it has everything for everyone. Indulge in the biggest pub crawls and when the bars close at 2:00 AM in the original nightlife district of the Bairro Alto, take your partying to Pink Street in the cool and trendy  district of Cais do Sodre  until the wee hours of the morning.

9. Language

Again, unlike like its immediate European neighbors, English is widely spoken and accepted.

10. Day trips and Atlantic beaches

It is more than just being stuck in the city.  Within 30 min you can reach the Atlantic beaches of Guincho, Adraga and Grande. Alternately make a day trip to either the resort town of Sintra or the coastal resort of Cascais on the Portuguese riviera.

Getting around

Now that you have plenty of reasons to visit Lisbon let’s understand the city.

To understand Lisbon, you will need to get familiar with its neighborhoods or districts. It is a vast historical city sprawled vertically along seven rolling hills.

1. Airport to City Center

Lisbon Airport is conveniently located only 7 km (4 miles) from the city center. We were charged a flat €16 for a taxi from the airport to Bairro Alto and the return was only €9.

If you prefer a private transfer to/from Lisbon Airport,  take the worry out of your arrival at Lisbon Airport with a pre-booked private transfer by air-conditioned vehicle exclusive to you. Click here to book.

Save money on taxis by alternately taking the AeroBus Lisbon Airport Shuttle, click here to book.

2.Walking

Like most European cities walking is the best way to discover the true nature and culture of a city. To do so in Lisbon, you will encounter very long and steep streets, winding alleys and a labyrinth of narrow lanes packed with houses.

You will have no choice but to navigate them by climbing up and down the cobblestone hills. I strongly suggest bringing along comfortable shoes.

3. Yellow Tram

Alternately you can take Lisbon’s Yellow trams, specifically Tram 28. The tram brings you up and down Lisbon hills to the historic parts of the city.

There is also a red tourist tram that follows the same route as the Tram 28 but the difference is it has an informative audio-guide and a higher ticket cost starting at €22 per person.

A single ticket purchased onboard the tram costs €2.90. A much better option is to purchase the 24-hour public transport ticket which includes the metro and all tram and bus services. This ticket costs €6.15 but annoyingly can only be purchased from the ticket machines in the metro stations.

Travel Tip #1: Make sure you buy individual tickets, do not pay for more than one person on a ticket.

Travel Tip #2: The cost of the trams can add up pretty quickly. Ride the entire route as there is a lot to see.

Travel Tip #3: Lisbon is notorious for pickpockets, especially on the trams. Use common sense and protect your belongings. Ride early or late to avoid crowds.

4. Lisbon Tuk-Tuks

However, there is a third alternative. The Lisbon tuk-tuk. They are ubiquitous and tourist friendly. Each can accommodate anywhere from 4 – 6 people comfortably. They offer different packages ranging from Romantic Lisbon, Historic Lisbon or Food Tour Lisbon. Usually a 2 hour tour costs €75. Don’t be afraid to negotiate. We got ours for €60.

What I Did: In addition to taxis and a Lisbon tuk-tuk, I walked an average of 16 km (10 miles) a day, which allowed me to truly dig deep into the city.

Lisbon Districts

There are five districts in Lisbon that are noteworthy and of historical importance. 

Baixa, Bairro Alto, Chiado, Alfama, and Belém,

Let’s explore Lisbon!

I usually travel without a plan. I just show up and let it all unfold. With no  maps, guides, preconceived notions or expectations I explore on my own. I like to speak with the locals and let the destination make its impression. Getting lost is just my thing!

Tackling Lisbon without a plan can be very arduous and I learned that very quickly.

However, I hope my experiences and travel tips below will help you navigate Lisbon in a more orderly manner.

Day 1 – Baixa and Bairro Alto

Early morning the taxi deposited me and my friends to our airbnb third floor apartment in the Bairro Alto district. Unbeknownst to us we were staying in the entertainment and nightlife center of Lisbon.  We wouldn’t find out about the craziness until later.

Lisbon was just starting to stir around 10:00 AM. Streets were being cleaned, restaurants were starting to set tables outside and the sun began to make its way into the narrow alleyways. The colorful tiles gleamed, laundry on the balconies overhead fluttered in the gentle sea breeze, there was a certain stillness except for the occasional clattering of tables nearby.  We waited for the landlord to give us access to the apartment.

Staying in the “Upper City” of Bairro Alto we planned on walking to Baixa which is Lisbon’s city center and the “Lower City”.

After depositing our luggage we headed out onto the cobblestone streets and quickly found ourselves at the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara terrace. We got our first chance to view the Lisbon rooftops.

The tree-lined shaded terrace with a beautiful fountain and a park offers great views of the city. However as of our visit in August 2018 there is a new fence which prevents you from  really enjoying the view and getting close to the perimeter.

After a leisurely quintessential European breakfast on the terrace comprising of fresh squeezed orange juice, flaky buttery croissants and espresso we walked down to Praça dos Restauradores square in the Baixa district via Calçada da Glória, the steepest street in Lisbon.

Alternately you can use many of the staircases & streets, funicular “Elevador da Gloria” or Tram 28 to go back and forth from Bairro Alto to Baixa and Chaido districts.

Praça dos Restauradores Square

Praça dos Restauradores square features an obelisk monument (not pictured) that stands in the centre of the square. The tall white monument commemorates the independence of Portugal from 60 years of Spanish rule in 1640. Though one of Lisbon’s lesser known squares,  it leads you to Rossio Square, the main central square of Lisbon and the true heart of the city.

Rossio Square

Lisbon revolves around Rossio.  It is the tourist hub where you will find the locals mingling along with singing students, protesting workers and tourists drinking overpriced coffee.

Founded during the 13th century as the large central square of Lisbon, it was here where public shows, bull fights and royal proclamations occurred. The old city of Lisbon was centered around this square.

Rossio square is flanked by two baroque fountains. It also features in the center a column with the statue of King Pedro IV.  In the 19th century the square was paved in stone designed to resemble the oceans.

Rua Augusta

Lisbon’s busiest and most prominent promenade,  Rua Augusta,  is a pedestrian only shopping street and a major tourist center connecting  Rossio to Praça do Comércio on the riverfront.

If you are so inclined, this is a good place to take a break,  people watch, and grab a coffee in any of the many restaurants and cafes that line the street.

Of course we did the touristy thing and went ahead with coffee and pastéis de nata or Egg Custard Tart. These pastries are famous in Belem and known as Pastéis de Belém,  you will find them all over Lisbon and you will eat plenty of them. A good pastéis de nata should have a super flaky crust with a creamy custard center.

After the mandatory social media updates, we proceeded down the promenade to Praça do Comércio on the riverfront.

Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square)

Heading  south on Rua Augusta towards the riverfront we passed under the Rua Augusta Arch. This arch was designed by the Portuguese architect Santos de Carvalho to celebrate the reconstruction of Lisbon after the 1755 earthquake and it was completed in 1873.

Lisbon’s main square Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) was built on the site where the old Royal Palace used to exist before it was destroyed by the earthquake.

The square, also known as the “Door to Lisbon”, opens and looks out onto the Tagus River. The river is the official entrance to Lisbon and indeed an essential part of everyday life in the city.

A large marble staircase arising from the water leads to the vast arcaded  Praça do Comércio . The three sides of the square are surrounded by yellow Baroque buildings dating from the 18th century. In the middle of the square stands a bronze statue of  King Joseph I on horseback.

After soaking in the importance of this historical gateway and all the Baixa landmarks, we decided to head back to Bairro Alto for lunch.

Walking West of Commerce Square following Rua do Arsenal is Praça do Municipio (Municipal Square), a small peaceful square where the City Hall, Appeals Court and Navy Arsenal is located.

The City Hall building is a neoclassical palace. The interior features rich works of art but can only be visited on free guided tours on Sunday mornings.

We continued walking West and began to ascend a series of steep streets towards Bairro Alto and got to explore some of the neighborhoods.

Away from the tourist traps we found a local restaurant along one of the many stairs in Bairro Alto. Lunch was in session.

To beat the August heat, we guzzled on many jugs of sangria and satiated our appetite on an assortment of tapas.

My thoughts so far…

We whiled away over two hours on the outdoor patio and during the inane banter with my friends my mind veered off reflecting on the day so far. After doing the usual touristy tour,  I was not connecting with Lisbon.  I had mixed feelings, I wanted to love Lisbon and the city had yet to grasp my attention. What was missing?

Unlike other European cities, Lisbon is gritty, dilapidated, its age reflecting on every surface, not in a good way.  The old mixing with the new and the new overlapping the old. It was a total dichotomy. What is Lisbon?

Yes, there are brilliant monuments and historical references everywhere but I needed an emotional connection that makes one fall in love with a city.

It was too early to judge. I have plenty of time and with that thought we headed off to a much deserved siesta.

After the refreshing break we decided to head out for the evening. The light was magical as we stepped out of our apartment.  The sun had started to go down and the city took on a whole different character.  Bairro Alto had completely transformed from a shabby neighborhood into a vibrant, colorful, almost carnivalesque atmosphere.

The neighborhood was a din of bantering tourists and locals. Restaurants, bars and pubs lined every street and corner; food and drinks aplenty on every table. Happy hour and dinner service  were being peddled on every corner. Laughter and music poured out from every direction, there was a sense of revelry in the air.

We strolled the streets of Bairro Alto which are laid out in a grid pattern, allowing us to easily navigate and explore the neighborhood.

Bairro Alto after dusk is truly magical. It is the ideal time to dine out at some of the best restaurants in Lisbon or grab drinks, mingle with Lisboetas and people watch in its few well maintained praças (piazzas).

As we continued to explore the neighborhood we walked down Rua das Flores just outside of Barrio Alto in the Chaido district. We found ourselves  an amazing wine-bar  “BY THE WINE JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA“.  I highly recommend this flagship store which offers several local gastronomical options and is a great spot for food & wine lovers in Lisbon. They offer all of the wines from José Maria da Fonseca “by the glass” as well as by the bottle.

After a couple hours of imbibing some of the finest Portuguese wines and nibbling on decadent delicacies, we headed back to Barrio Alto in quest to find Fado music.

Based on local recommendation we found our way to “Tasca do Chico” which  is perhaps the best tasca for live Fado music.

An impossibly small space packed to the gills like the ubiquitous sardines served in every restaurant, it apparently is “the” place to be. However eat dinner elsewhere before you get here as they only serve drinks and snacks. Try their flaming sausage set on fire on the bar top and roasted before your eyes. We did, it was cheap and delicious!

FADO

We squeezed our way in, found a spot, got some more wine and listened to the hauntingly sad ballads rendered by a fadista.

Born in the Alfama district it is Portugal’s national folk music. Fado has defined the Portuguese culture for centuries and their state of “Saudaude”, a deep emotional state of melancholic longing for someone or something you love that has left.  It is said that the Lisboetas suffer from this affliction to this day. This was my first Fado experience and it made a lasting impression. I enjoyed this cultural heritage immensely. Do not miss out on this when you are in Lisbon.  There is Fado music almost everywhere in Bairro Alto and the Alfama district.

Experience the live 50-minute ‘Fado in Chiado’ show and discover the music that expresses the true soul of Lisbon, featuring 2 singers, 2 guitarists, and the music that UNESCO has declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Click here for tickets.

Lisbon Pub and VIP Club Crawl

The neighborhood now is a madhouse, shoulder to shoulder, the streets are running over with people, young and old alike. There were large crowds of  loud and boisterous young people involved in pub crawls, guzzling copious amounts of beer. Restaurants were finishing up dinner service, dance clubs were filled to the brim and the streets littered with drunk people, all having a blast!

To take part in the biggest pub crawl in Lisbon, and party at some of the city’s best bars and clubs for 5 hours or more, Click here to book your tickets and skip the long lines to all the venues you go to.  

We made our way to the Pink street in the Cais do Sodre area. Outdoor patios were abuzz with chatter and clinking glasses as people continued their celebrations. As the night progressed those looking to continue their partying poured in from Bairro Alto. Clubs, restaurants and bars were at their tipping point. More wine and tapas later, we called it a night!

Recommended Pink Street Bars and Restaurants

Pensão Amor, Povo, Music Box, Viking, Copenhagen, and Discoteca

Travel tip: The best bars and restaurants of Lisbon are located in Bairro Alto. 

Day 1 Summary

In conclusion, Baixa is a tourist hub with great monuments, grand architecture, vast public squares, mosaiced pedestrian promenades alive with outdoor cafes, tiled Art Deco shop-fronts, terraced restaurants and is tourist-centric.

On the other hand, Bairro Alto is the  lively, cultural hub of Lisbon. It is old, shabby, alternative, adorned in street art with art galleries, trendy bars and restaurants. This is where the underground movement is taking place and emerging artists are making waves. This is where you will  peruse the boutique shops and tea houses, and pause to admire the views. This is also where locals meet to catch up with friends over dinner or coffee, raise a toast to the end of another workday and party into the early hours. 

Day 2 – Chiado and Alfama

The best part of not staying in a hotel is it gives one an opportunity to get up early and go hunting for a bakery in the neighborhood. A few blocks away I found a Brazilian Pastelaria. I grabbed fresh baked croissants, muffins and scones for breakfast and headed back to the apartment to wake up the guys.

There are a few things that complete a trip to Portugal and ordering from a local pastelaria is one of them.

The other thing on the list for today was to experience a local neighborhood restaurant serving Portuguese cuisine. But first there was so much to still explore in Lisbon.

We made our way to the adjacent Chiado district  admiring the multicolored tiled facades of terraced buildings along the way.  We found ourselves on Chiado’s most famous street Rua do Carmo in front of Largo do Carmo.   The tranquil picturesque jacaranda tree-lined square featured the 18th century fountain “Chafariz do Carmo” and the gothic ruins of Carmo Convent.

Carmo Convent

The fountain Chafariz do Carmo was reconstructed  along with the neighboring buildings  after the 1755 earthquake.

The evidence of the earthquake is still apparent in the Carmo Convent across the street.  Unfortunately this gothic church was never able to be restored.

Today the gothic ruins remind us of what is left of the largest church in Lisbon at the time of the earthquake.

We spent over an hour exploring the ruins and the intact main altar which houses a small archaeological museum with an eclectic collection of tombs and artifacts. It is a stoic reminder of our past and an opportunity to reflect on the lives of our ancestors.

Travel Tip #1: To get to Rua do Carmo take Tram 28, the Santa Justa lift or the Elevador da Glória, located in Praça dos Restauradores.

Travel Tip #2: Save money with a flexible Lisbon Card which includes free access to 23 city museums. Available in 1-, 2-, or 3-day options, the card also doubles as an unlimited ticket for public transport on Metro, Trams and Buses.

A short walk from the ruins and through the Chiado neighborhood we found ourselves again at Rua Augusta in Baixa. We decided to take a coffee break at one of the many cafes and negotiated a tuk-tuk nearby to explore the rest of the city.

The tuk-tuk navigated its way through the cobblestone streets and brought us to our first stop the Sé de Lisboa. 

Sé de Lisboa (Lisbon Cathedral)

The imposing twelfth century Romanesque cathedral, featuring fortified twin clock towers, wasn’t spared during the devastating  1755 earthquake either. Although throughout the centuries the Cathedral has been renovated and rebuilt.

The church over the ages has witnessed several religious ceremonies, births and passing of Portugal’s nobility and elite.

Interesting fact: the ancient cloisters in the rear were constructed directly on top of a ruined mosque confirming the  13th century Catholic conquest of Portugal from the Moors. The Se Cathedral is steeped in history and a visit to Lisbon is incomplete without visiting this magnificent monument.

Alfama

Our tuk-tuk commenced a steep climb along the hills as we entered the Alfama district and brought us to the Miradouro de Santa Luzia.  A romantic terrace by the church of Santa Luzia, it is a great introduction to Alfama.

The café on the terrace is a good place for a drink and a break from the hectic day. There is no point in rushing any of this.  The break is also a welcome relief before climbing to the castle nearby.

Just a few steps from Miradouro de Santa Luzia is the Miraduoro das Portas do Sol. Popular with photographers, it overlooks medieval Alfama and offers spectacular views.

As I got back on the tuk-tuk, realization set in.  I have begun to connect with Lisbon.  The Fado song from the previous evening is playing in my head, the city is becoming familiar and I was falling in love with it. The city’s character and identity were emerging and I was really enjoying Lisbon.

Our next stop was the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, just outside the main city in the Graca neighbourhood.  It is the highest miradouro or lookout point in Lisbon. 

Miradouro da Senhora do Monte offers stunning panoramic views across Lisbon from the stunning old quarters and castle to the downtown district of the city and beyond.

We continued our tuk-tuk expedition through the neighborhoods of Alfama, the river front and downtown area. Eventually we asked to be dropped off back in Alfama. We were famished at this point so the quest for a neighborhood restaurant began.

The winding narrow cobblestone alleys of Alfama are a treasure trove of Lisbon’s ancient past. This is the original neighborhood dating back to when it was occupied by the Moors. Today there are no traces of the Moorish past and much of the district is still being restored.

After wandering much of Alfama and rejecting many of the restaurants, we stumbled upon what was to be the most quintessential of Lisbon’s local neighborhood eateries.

Lisboa Tu & Eu  located on one of Alfama’s narrow streets is a tiny family run establishment serving authentic Portuguese cuisine. The small restaurant has cramped tight quarters and a napkin sized patio. We literally sat in the kitchen surrounded by tiny tables and chairs forcing us to interact with everyone which was to our liking. Rubbing elbows with other patrons we dug in to dishes ranging  from Mackerels, Sardines, Bacalhau (Cod), Octopus, Shrimp, Calamari, sautéed Beef and washed it down with chilled beer.

It was the most satisfying and delicious meal; hearty, fresh and full of flavors.  A true local neighborhood gem, I highly recommend Lisboa Tu & Eu if you want to experience traditional Portuguese cuisine.

The afternoon heat and the gluttonous lunch drained us of any and all motivation to take another step. We relaxed under a grapevine on nearby stairs across from the restaurant and contemplated our next move. The soothing trickle from the wall fountain and the Gypsy Kings lamenting on a radio nearby lulled us into a food coma making it impossible to get up.

Friends, a great meal and bonding on an abandoned street of Lisbon sans any tourist was most ideal.  I wish there was a hammock to take a nap. As a traveler this was the perfect moment.

Under the influence of indignation and resentment to leave, we decided on finding another local cafe serving a stiff espresso and pastéis de nata.

However the heat, coffee and dessert sealed our fate.  Late afternoon we headed back to our apartment in Bairro Alto in hopes of walking off our lunch and a much needed siesta.

Completely refreshed from the nap we descended into the festive atmosphere of our neighborhood and made our way to Praça Luís de Camões, this small square is the transition zone between Bairro Alto and Chiado.  We watched the daily local life pass by and spent a delightful evening over drinks and conversations.

Late evening we decided to go back again to our favorite wine-bar By The Wine José Maria da Fonseca , this time for a proper dinner.

We feasted on an exquisite decadent dinner featuring oysters, tuna ceviche, octopus, and an aged steak with roasted mushrooms and potatoes.  Everything was cooked to perfection and in Portuguese style. Of course it was mandatory to drink a couple of  bottles of the finest local wines with our dinner.

Local cuisine is a perfect gateway to understand the culture of the visiting city. When traveling I strongly suggest seeking out establishments specializing in indigenous cuisines.

After engaging in a lengthy conversation with the restaurant’s manager on the escalating costs of real estate and the emergence of Lisbon on the international scene, we headed back to Bairro Alto for a nightcap.

Day 2 Summary

In conclusion, Chiado is a bustling, elegant, most refined and sophisticated area in the city. Chiado is Lisbon’s calling card.  Draped over a hill that runs down from Bairro Alto to Baixa, it is  populated with a myriad of shops, designer ateliers and restaurants. 

A bohemian neighborhood, it is best characterized as a mix of modern and the traditional. Chiado’s mosaiced squares are a meeting point for the city’s artists and intellectuals. It has evolved into the most desirable district for the city’s increasing number of international visitors.

Alfama spread over the south-eastern slope of the hill is a quintessential ancient Arab district.  Once home to the city’s fishermen, it is a picturesque labyrinth of narrow winding paths. Aromas from restaurants and bakeries infuse the air, haunting melodies of Fado echo the streets and charming vignettes of daily life abound.

Alfama, defined by its heritage,  is the birth place of Lisbon. A village within a city where locals know each other by name.

Day 3 – Belém and Cascais

After a breakfast of fresh croissants, pastries and coffee from a nearby pastelaria we walked down to the Cais do Sodré district and caught a taxi to Belém.

Alternatively you can take the Tram 15 in the Cais do Sodré station. It is usually packed with people traveling to Belém.

Travel tip #1: When you get on the tram be careful of pickpockets. This is a very popular line for professional thieves since it is always full of tourists.

Travel tip #2: Do not buy the 24 hour ticket, It will not work for your trip to Belém. Buy the fare to Belém separately. 

A short ride and a €6 taxi fare deposited us in front of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery). I reeled back at the sheer volume of tourists everywhere.

The tourists serpentined the entrance to the extravagant Manueline style (Portuguese late Gothic) Monastery. I really wanted to explore but the sheer volume of visitors dissuaded me from making such an attempt. I will have to come back to do so in the offseason.

Travel Fact: The monastery was built on the site of the former chapel where Vasco da Gama and the rest of the sailors prayed before setting sail down the African coast to India. 

We made our way across from the monastery to Padrão dos Descobrimentos. This spectacular monument was designed to commemorate the Age of Discoveries in Portugal. Belém has long been associated with seafaring and Portuguese explorers like Vasco da Gama.

It was a splendid moment as we sat under the influence of the monument staring across the river Tagus and imagining the early explorers when they bravely sailed off to seek the unknown world.

You also have the opportunity to go on a guided sightseeing cruise along the river Tagus and see the wonderful landscape of the historical city center as you pass by some of the city’s most significant sights on a traditional 1947 boat. Click here to book your tickets.

Walking West along the estuary, a leisurely 1 km walk from the monument, brought us to the Tower of Belém and once again revealed hoards of tourists everywhere. Allow yourself plenty of time and start early if you plan on exploring the interiors.

The small fort with watchtowers is a symbol of the country and an emblem of Lisbon.  This is where most of the voyages of discovery started and was the last sight of the homeland for the departing sailors.

The tower, once in the middle of the Tagus river. was used as a defensive measure against sea bound attacks. Many years later it was converted into a lighthouse.

Built in the Manueline style there are also Moorish-style watchtowers and other Moorish influences. Facing the river are arcaded windows and delicate Venetian-style loggias. For a small defensive fort it is very ornate featuring elaborate craftsmanship.

Travel Fact: The tower was once in the centre of the Tagus river. Over the years the river has altered its course and now the tower is positioned on the edge of the banks of the estuary.

Travel Tip: A half day will suffice to see all the attractions in Belém.

Cascais

We decided to do a day trip on our last day. Our choice was either Sintra or Cascais on the Portuguese riviera.  Needing to relax by the water we chose the beach.

Just West of Lisbon, Cascais is a coastal resort town with beautiful beaches.

Getting there

Train is by far the best option.  It takes 50 minutes to reach Cascais from Lisbon. Most of the way the train will whisk you on a scenic route hugging the coastline.

You will arrive at the Cascais station located in the center of town. From here you can walk to most areas. The main beach and old town is literally across from the station, a relatively short walk.

Trains depart from Cais do Sodre Station and Belém station to Cascais station every 20 minutes,  check the timetable.

We arrived late afternoon completely famished and found ourselves a spot at one of the restaurants on the beach.

After a lot of sangria and a seafood lunch of grilled sea bass, calamari, bacalhau and octopus we found ourselves a spot on the crowded beach to soak in the sun and dip our feet in the Atlantic.

Later in the evening we explored the old town and took the train back to Lisbon.

Travel Tip: If you have time in Cascais it is a good idea to rent a bike and explore the stunning coastline and beaches all the way to Praia do Guincho.

Our last night in Lisbon we headed again in search of traditional Portuguese cuisine. Not wanting to compromise on our last meal we dug our heels and pounded the pavements of Bairro Alto. Our instincts finally stopped us at Sinal Vermelho. Frequented both by locals and tourists alike the restaurant served authentic traditional dishes and I highly recommend it.

We feasted on traditional Portuguese appetizers of octopus, a medley of sausages and bacalhau cakes. The main course was bacalhau cooked two ways and Lisbon chicken. The dessert, a traditional trio of Burnt cream, Rice Pudding and Grandmother Sweet was orgasmic. The Grandmother Sweet was so delectable I had to order another.

Dining Tip: The restaurant is very popular and we waited almost an hour to sit outside. Get there early or make reservations. If you have to wait, order wine and drink on the streets and watch life happen.

In Conclusion…

Lisbon is vibrant, unpretentious, relaxed, complex and unique defined by the heritage of the culture. It is compared to San Francisco in California and Montmartre in Paris but I believe it has it’s own identity. It is definitely making a mark on the international scene thanks in part to the emerging young creative talent, entrepreneurs and investors.

It has thriving cafés, bars and a restaurant scene adding immense culinary value to the city. It suits the younger generation for the untapped potential and the older generation for the perfect weather year round and investment opportunities.

It should be an obvious destination on everyones list to visit and enjoy its many offerings.  Like the Lisboetas now I’m definitely afflicted by the state of “Saudade” and a longing for Lisbon!

On day one Lisbon I had mixed feelings about you but by the time I left I was in love with you. I cannot stay and love you but when I return I will love you more, for now I miss you and only have begun to understand you.