Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Ravello
In the summer of 2017 while I was jetting around Europe I had 2 days in Rome with nothing to do. I grabbed a friend and decided to discover the Amalfi Coast.
It was last minute and I had dreamt of it for so long. I had no idea what lay ahead.
The Drive
The dream started as I drove away from Rome, leaving it’s usually hot and humid August weather to a slightly temperate climate of the southern coast. If you are a traveler, June/July is a much better time to visit Italy. In the month of August the weather gets really hot and the locals abandon the cities in favor of the sea to enjoy their summer vacations.
Mount Vesuvius keeps constant company as we pass Napoli and heralds the approach to the coast. The first encounter is the view of the Gulf of Naples over a hill top and the views are simply stunning.
The skies were a deep indigo blue, the mediterranean shimmering and glistening in the brilliant sun light, the coast line jagged and steep with a smattering of red tile rooftops, bougainvilleas in full bloom adding bright pink accents to a brilliant scenery unfolding. I see many ports and marinas below. Boats and cruise ships are but tiny dots trailing a white streak in their wake.
SORRENTO
As we begin the drive through the winding coast line, the excitement is palpable. Anticipating my first stop in Sorrento, I look over to my friend Simone as he deftly navigates the roads as only a local can do. He nods in silent affirmation fully aware of the excitement registering on my face.
Sorrento is our first stop on the discovery of the Amalfi Coast.
Lemon and olive groves welcome me to Sorrento as they flank the winding roads, the big city of Rome a distant memory.
We drove into Piazza Tazzo lined with cafes and plenty of tourists. Older local men sought respite under olive trees in the main piazza while the tourists thronged the cafes and streets.
Our exploration of the town took us through beautiful storefronts, jagged cliffs dominated by watchtowers, caves and enchanted bays set against the deep blue of the crystal clear sea. Sorrento indeed is the ultimate creation of nature’s magic.
Sorrento has plenty of restaurants, bars, shops, exclusive boutiques and craft workshops for all tastes and needs: from lace to coral ornaments, inlaid boxes, hand-painted ceramics, mouthwatering sugared almonds and citrus liqueurs.
We approached the majestic Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, breathtakingly positioned in front of the sea with sweeping panoramic views of the Gulf. Right next door the Foriegners’ Club Restaurant, which has amazing views of the sea, found us at the best table and lunch was in session.
The next hour and a half whiled away as we gazed at the expanse of sea and mount Vesuvius, not the killer it was when it destroyed Pompeii but serene and a perfect backdrop.
We feasted on a classic Margherita pizza. The dough ever so light and airy, baked to perfection, and the chew, perfect and delicious. The second course saw us diving into a large delicious bowl filled with a medley of seafood cooked in a white wine sauce, perfectly balancing the balmy summer afternoon. Of course we washed down our meal with chilled white wine sourced from the local wineries.
After a full day of exploration as the evening rolled in, we reluctantly left Sorrento and it was time to navigate the treacherous drive to Positano.
POSITANO
The road to Positano is not for the faint of heart. It is very narrow, steep, winding and there are roads where you could barely pass a single vehicle, let alone two in opposite directions.
On one of the many hairpin bends and when you least expect, Positano emerges suddenly and dramatically. It stops us in our tracks. It is even more beautiful than I had imagined.
The sheer cliffs against the sweeping sea, pastel colored houses with multicolored bougainvillea dotting the hillsides are all simply breathtaking.
This seems like a dream, this is a dream!
I realize this is real. The dream has become a reality. I’m dreaming with my eyes open.
Unlike Sorrento, you don’t drive into the main piazza but instead the commune of Positano starts along the steep narrow windy roads lined with hotels, restaurants, cafes, clothing boutiques, shops and residences. The main center and piazza is on the bottom, at sea level.
After checking into our seafront hotel with magnificent views and taking a slight pause to rest, we embarked with giddiness to explore the village.
A short walk downhill from our hotel en route to the center we saw a sign directing us off the beaten path to the beach down below. Anything to avoid the tourists we decided upon it and descended a series of stairs through local dwellings. Narrow and steep it offered us unbelievable vistas at every turn.
If you are staying in the upper village I strongly recommend taking the street “Via Fornillo” and the many stairs leading to the beach down below and experiencing the breathtaking views along the way.
We climbed down 465 stairs leading us to a black pebbly Fornillo beach which was completely abandoned. At this hour most of the tourists were congregating at the main Positano beach and the village center. The stillness and emptiness of the beach was perfect.
From the Fornillo beach we climbed more stairs and a windy pedestrian road called “Via Positanesi D’America” along the hill face to the main Positano beach. Along this road we noticed “Ristorante Lo Guarracino” and made a mental note to return for dinner later.
Upon reaching the main beach and the village center we noticed there was a lot of hustle and bustle. Standing on the waters edge the entire village rose on the hillside like a grand crown studded with precious stones. It was a sight to behold.
The weather was pleasantly balmy and the evening found many tourists dressed in their very best having an aperitivo. A few catching private boats for a cruise along the sea front. We grabbed a couple of drinks from the sea side cafe and proceeded to spend the next few hours people watching and hanging at the port. It was magical.
After exploring the town with its many nooks and crannies, all very delightful and postcard perfect, we retraced our steps back to Ristorante Lo Guarracino for dinner. The location on the waterfront cliff is spectacular and the dinner was excellent.
We feasted on grilled vegetables, a plethora of sea food while drinking copious amounts of wine and capping off the night with Amaro and Limoncello.
Positano is a picture perfect village. You come here to relax, to romance or to simply get away from it all. You don’t rush through anything as you can choose to aimlessly meander the picturesque streets, shop, visit art galleries or do something a little adventurous such as kayaking or hiking up the many trails in the hills. Likewise you could rent a beach chair for €10 and work on your tan along its pristine pebbly beach.
Similarly if you decide to rent a boat you will be able to reach the otherwise inaccessible coves of the Amalfi Coast and enjoy a little corner of paradise all to yourselves, for hours.
This is possibly my favorite village along the coast and I certainly did not wish to leave.
Travel Tip: If you are arriving by ferry, please be mindful that Positano is not very luggage friendly. You will encounter a lot of stairs and steep hills. You can utilize Positano porter service at €5 -€7/bag to haul your luggage.
Day 2 – Amalfi & Ravello
After a leisurely breakfast we continued along the coast and headed over to the town of Amalfi.
As we approach Amalfi, the scene is spectacular, the cliffs steeper and jagged and the light slightly different. The marina is packed in contrast to the other villages, definitely busier and packed with more tourists.
Surrounded by blue mountains, the picturesque town starts at the water’s edge; its marina bobbing with colorful boats. Amalfi is one of the most historic towns along the Coast although I wish it was not so commercial and touristy.
It’s also one of the more level towns; ambling up the hillside from the water rather than clinging vertically to it, making it a bit easier to walk around.
The focal point of the historic center is the Piazza del Duomo in front of a striking cathedral. The piazza is clustered with sidewalk cafes and elegant shops.
I found the 9th-century Roman Catholic cathedral with its 60 steps in the Piazza del Duomo to be most noteworthy. It is predominantly of Arab- Norman Romanesque architectural style and has been remodeled several times adding Romanesque, Byzantine, Gothic, and Baroque elements. It is a must visit and can’t be missed.
After a few relaxing hours in Amalfi we decided it was time to drive up to Ravello.
Travel Tip: Amalfi is a great base for day trips to Positano, Ravello and Sorrento. If you are not staying in Amalfi a few hours will suffice to see it all.
RAVELLO
Three miles of twisting roads up from Amalfi brings us to Ravello. I consider Ravello to be the crowning glory of the Amalfi coast- it has attracted artists, writers, and celebrities for centuries.
The 11th Century Duomo di Ravello and the 13th century Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone are a must visit. Despite both Villas being 5 star hotels, the perfectly manicured gardens with sweeping views of the Mediterranean are open to the public for viewing.
Ravello is a class apart on its own. Though lesser known than its counterparts, I strongly recommend visiting it.
We capped of the visit with lunch at Restaurant Belvedere in Hotel Belmond Caruso with its spectacular views.
Taking our after lunch coffee in the relaxing verandah adjacent to the restaurant was certainly the highlight. The chef’s dessert tasting menu is served in a spectacular setting with views of the sea and gardens below.
I could have spent the rest of the day here daydreaming, and I did just that.
Travel Tip: The views from Terrazza dell’Infinito (Terrace of Infinity) at Villa Cimbrone and the gardens of Villa Rufolo are some the finest in the world.
If you have only 2 days this is a pretty good itinerary but I most certainly would spend few days in each town.
You can make either Sorrento, Positano or Amalfi your base and explore the Amalfi coast. Buses and taxis will easily take you to the villages around and likewise boats help you in exploring the coast.
In conclusion the Amalfi coast is everything I had dreamt of and more.
Click here to see 15 stunning photographs along the Amalfi Coast!
Bon Voyage!
